Wednesday 21 October 2009

Quebec City

OK, confession: my camera battery sort of died (I’m sure I can sort it, but…) so I just had to go and buy myself a new camera, I mean my old one was years old (and took very good photos still) and the zoom wasn’t amazing, so I just had to get a new one, right?! Now, I have a shiny new camera, with an amazing zoom and lots of functions that I have no idea how to work or what they do and probably won’t work out until I get back next year. Though I do have the manual on my netbook, it’s just a bit, well boring to read…


Confession over, back to Quebec City - though I did spend my first morning in Quebec searching for a new camera and deciding which one to get. The tourist part of Quebec City is divided into two main sections, the lower and upper town. I walked from the hostel in the Old Lower Town, which was about 10 minutes away. It’s full of pretty, cobbled streets, the centre of which is Place Real, which has Notre Dame des Victoires, an old church with a model ship hanging from its roof.

From there it is a short walk to the Upper Town, the distance isn’t very far, but the steps are a killer, especially in the early morning when they are icy. I did go up the steps a couple of times, but once I’d done it a few times, I thought I could use the old Funicular. The steps bring you to one of Quebec City’s most famous landmarks - Chateau Frontenac, apparently it’s the most photographed hotel in the world. So I helped add to its claim to fame. Along the front of the hotel and following the river is the Promenade des Governeurs, which is a walkway that leads up to Battlefields Park and of course involves even more stairs. But there are plenty of viewpoints along the walkway to admire the view and for some people to get their breath back.

Once on Battlefields Park, there is the Citadelle and the Plains of Abraham. The park is where France and England fought three battles over control of Quebec City, I think England won just one of them, in the quickest battle, which lasted only 10 minutes. The Citadelle, which is the largest fort in North America, is on the edge of the park, looking over the St Lawrence River, I got my timing right on visiting there and was able to join a tour that was just leaving. The fort was started by the French and finished by the English and it is the base of the 22’s - the only French speaking battalion in the Canadian army. It has the home of the Governor General and the Queen is said to stay there when she visits Quebec, though I would have thought she’d stay at the Chateau Frontenac…

After the fort, which being on top of a hill was freezing, I headed into the Old Upper Town in search of Poutine. A Quebec City speciality, which is chips, curd cheese and gravy. It does sound horrible and it is a total grease fest, but when it’s cold it’s perfect.

The next day I walked along the riverside and docks to the departure point for the ferry to Levis. The weather was gorgeous, sun shining and not too windy, so I was able to sit outside on the ferry and admire the view of Quebec as we went across the St Lawrence river. Once in Levis, I took a stroll along the river walkway and shore, even going onto the ‘beach’. The main reason for tourists to take the ferry is for the views, for locals it’s to get to Levis. So after about an hour’s walk I got the return ferry back to Quebec City and admired the views of Levis.

Then I wandered the Old Upper Town, visiting the Notre Dame Cathedral, Ursuline Chapel and walked along the top of the city wall. I did stop for a Croque Monsieur, which was a Canadian Croque Monsieur, basically cheese and ham on toast. Then it was onto Artillery Park, another site of Canadian Historic importance, more city walls and the city gates. Quebec City within the walls is quite small and easy to do in a couple of days if you’re prepared to walk, it’s also very pretty too, plus full of tourists, especially when the big cruise ships dock.
Next stop: Montreal

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