Wednesday 3 June 2009

10 things I’ll miss about Munich


I’m sure this list could be much longer the more I think about it, as Munich is a great city to visit and live in. One of the best I’ve known.

  1. Beergardens. These are typically German, unlike pub gardens in the UK, they are normally an outdoor space dedicated to drinking beer. Pub gardens in the UK tend to involve a few picnic tables crammed into an open space by the pub, these days normally full of smokers. Here there is often a building for imbibing in winter, but some do close down over winter when the weather isn’t good enough to drink outside without the beer and patrons freezing. The beergardens usually have long tables and benches and you often end up sharing with a bunch of strangers which can make for an interesting afternoon. The law of the beergardens is that you can bring food and eat at the tables without tablecloths, but you must buy your drink from the establishment. The tablecloths denote that these are table served by waiters, which makes them like a normal restaurant. But the other tables are self service. You can often see families turn up with their picnics and settle down at a table for the afternoon. Of course they bring their own tablecloths!
  2. Bike paths. The cycle ways in Munich make cycling a safe thing to do, once you’ve learnt the protocol. Frequently if you’re going too slowly and someone wants to overtake they’ll ring their bell to let you know that they’re coming. You don’t have to do much, maybe move over a bit, but it makes life easier to know that you’re being overtaken. The bike paths cover most of the city and if not, cars are aware of cyclists so make room for them on roads when overtaking etc. When crossing a road, cyclists frequently have their own traffic signal, so you know when it’s safe to cross, even if pedestrians aren’t able to.

  3. Halbe Hendl & Pommes. This isn’t the healthiest meal out there, but it is good. The chickens are spit roasted, covered in a marinade or spice rub and filled with herbs which give them a wonderful flavour. Now if only you could get decent mayonnaise to go with the chips this would be a perfect meal.
  4. Cleanliness and safety. Munich is a clean city and certainly one of the safest I’ve lived in. Though I’ve had no problems in London, New York etc, but the feeling of safety when out alone is very reassuring. Even when going home alone at night, I feel safe, wandering around amid hoards of drunken football fans I don’t feel threatened. Though when a football match is on in town the police presence seems to triple, but if this makes for extra security then it’s a good thing.

  5. Oktoberfest, dirndls and lederhosen. A Munich tradition, though dirndls and lederhosen aren’t exclusively for Oktoberfest, it seems any excuse to wear tracht (traditional outfits) is taken up. You can see people in their outfits every Saturday around town and at the Viktualienmarkt, especially at one beer place, a famous local and his friends are used to visitors taking photos, his moustache is a thing to behold. Emily at Servüs München has an excellent guide to the Oktoberfest, usually held in the last two weeks in September, with the last weekend of Oktoberfest taking place over the first weekend of October. Oktoberfest is a celebration of beer and fun, with a fairground outside for all the family (be advised the rides are safer used in the day before people who’ve drunk lots of beer get up the courage and turn green). The beer tents aren’t tents, but rather temporary buildings that are built every year for the fest at Theresienwiese or Wies'n. Once you’ve chosen your tent, for the beer, atmosphere or just finding a space, then get your first beer and enjoy. You’ll meet lots of new people who you’re sharing the table with and any at neighbouring tables, you’ll learn to mumble along to the various songs that are played again and again, drink more beer and have fun.
  6. The Sunday and bank holiday closure laws. Shops are shut here on Sundays and bank holidays which can makes for a very peaceful day as long as you’re organised over the week and Saturday. Though it can turn day trips on Sunday into crowded affairs on the trains it does tend to make Sundays more relaxing.

  7. Events. I love the fact that Munich has so many outdoor events and seems happy to close off main streets so people can party, shop or just wander. When the European championships were taking place in Germany the other year the city happily shut Leopoldstrasse in Schwabing off so people could celebrate or commiserate. Drinking was allowed and partying all night was fine, of course there was a police presence but it was a friendly affair no matter what team you supported or even if you don’t like football. The Christmas markets are great too, especially the smaller ones, where you can buy a gluhwein and stroll about the stalls deciding what to buy. Every year they close off Odeonsplatz for two day evening concerts called Konzert at Odeonsplatz. There are so many of these occasions about the city, if one is happening whilst you’re visiting it’s worth the time to check them out.


  8. Weather. In winter it snows, it summer it is sunny and hot. Spring and autumn are cool, wet and what they should be. Leaves fall in autumn and the buds bloom in spring, couldn’t ask for more. A lot of people complain about the long winters in Munich, yes, it does get cold, it does snow. But when the snow comes the city is beautiful and peaceful, the cars stop and people just wander around playing in the snow. In summer there are, of course, storms, but even the storms are great, powerful rain with loud thunder and streaks of lightning. OK, so it’s best not to be caught out in a storm, I was knocked off my bike the other week by the power of the wind, but the fact that the contrast in the weather is so great it makes for an interesting life. Just remember in summer to have a rain jacket with you and you’ll be fine.
  9. Location. Munich is ideally situated to visit the surrounding Bavarian towns, Austria, France and most of Europe are a quick flight or train ride away. So if you want to escape Munich for a long weekend the options are pretty endless.
  10. Public transport. Public transportation in Munich is second to none, with buses, trams and the metro. They all allow you to move around Munich easily and efficiently. It’s a trust based system, so if you buy a ticket you must stamp before getting on any transport, because there are ticket inspectors who can slap you with a on the spot €40 fine, for schwarzfahren (black travel). The ticket system is thought to be complicated, sometimes said to just confuse visitors, but once you’ve worked it out, travel is easy within the city's zones. Even the local Bayern trains are easy to use to investigate the area, you can buy a Bayern ticket, which allows you unlimited travel on the local trains for up to 5 people (and children under 15 travel for free) for just €27. Makes a day trip much easier if you don’t have to worry about driving, parking, not drinking with lunch and sleeping on the way back after a day’s hiking.

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